Comprehensive Watch Glossary (including abbreviations)

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The glossary is included in the first two posts.

1:1. Stands for “one to one.” See “Unicorn”.

ALS. Refers to the watch manufacturer A. Lange & Sohne.

Annual Calendar. A calendar mechanism that automatically adjusts for the different lengths of all months except February. The watch has to be reset at the end of each February, based on whether there were 28 or 29 days that year. Compare with “Perpetual Calendar”.

Anti-reflective coating (or “AR”). Refers to coating applied to watch crystals that reduces glare. AR coating can be single (coating only on inside) or double (coating on both sides).

AP. Refers to the watch manufacturer Audemars Piguet.

AR. See “Anti-reflective coating.”

ATM. Atmospheres. A unit of pressure.

Automatic. This is one type of mechanical movement. The other type is an manual movement. The word “Automatic” can refer to a movement (automatic movement), or a watch (a watch with an automatic movement). An automatic movement is also referred to as a “self-winding” movement. An automatic movement words similarly to a manual movement, but with the addition of a rotor. When the wearer of the watch moves their wrist, the rotor spins and transfers energy that automatically winds the mainspring. That way, the watch harnesses energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist.

Bezel. The ring around a watch dial that holds the crystal in place. Many bezels can be rotated to measure elapsed time or to indicate time in a different time zone.

BLNR (or Batman). Refers to the Rolex GMT Master II 116710 with the black and blue bezel. Derived from Bleu et Noir (French for blue and black).

B&R. Refers to the watch manufacturer Bell & Ross.

Calendar. A watch that displays the date. A simple calendar shows the day of the month in an aperture on the dial. A more complicated calendar may also show the month, year, and day of the week.

Caliber (or Calibre). See “Movement”.

Canal Street. Famous location in New York for buying (usually very poor quality) replica watches.

Case. This refers to the container that houses and protects the watch movement.

Caseback. This refers to the underside of the case—the part of the watch that sits against the skin.

Center seconds. Refers to the placement of the second hand in the center of the dial.

CG. Crown guard.

Chronograph. A device that measures elapsed time, such as a stopwatch. The word can be used to refer to a the device, or to a watch that incorporates the device. A standard chronograph has two pushes on the side of the watch case. The top pusher is used to start and stop the time-keeping function. The botto pusher is used to return the hands to zero. One or more subdials are typically used to show the elapsed time.

Chronometer. A watch that has passed the certain timing tests administered by an official agency that certifies chronometers, such as “COSC”.
CNY. Chinese New Year.

Complication. A watch with functions other than keeping time. Examples of complications include a chronograph, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar. The word “Complication” may be used to refer to the non-timekeeping function, or to the watch with the non-timekeeping function.

CONUS. Continental United States.

COSC (or C.O.S.C.). This is the abbreviation for “Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres”, which is the French phrase for “Swiss chronometer testing bureau.” COSC an agency sponsored by the Swiss government. The agency tests watches submitted to it and issues chronometer certificates to those that are precise enough to meet COSC standards.

Crown. The knob on the side of the case that is used to set the time and also the date (if the watch has a calendar). In mechanical watches, the crown is turned to wind the watch’s mainspring.

Crown guard. One or more protrusions from the case of the watch watch designed to protect the crown from damage.

Crystal. The word is typically used to refer to the transparent cover that protects the watch dial. These covers can be made of synthetic sapphire, plastic, or glass. A crystal may include anti-reflective coating to prevent glare. The word may also be used to refer to the tiny piece of quartz in a quartz watch.

Cyclops. A small lens on the crystal that magnifies the date.

Datewheel. The rotating wheel that includes the date numbers on watch that have a date function.

Day-date. Can be used generally to refer to a watch that shows the date and the day of the week. May refer to the Rolex Day Date model.

DD. Day date.

Decorated movement. Some replicas have a decorated movement, or a decorated plate on top of the movement, to replicate the look of the gen movement.

Deployant buckle (or Deployant clasp). A buckle that is attached to the watch strap that pops open and fastens using hinged extenders. A deployment buckle is easier to put on and remove than a tang buckle. It is sometimes mistakenly referred to as a deployment clasp. Deployant is derived from the French word deployer, which was derived from the Old French desplier, which was derived from Latin Displicare, and which means to fold. A deployment is the movement of troops or equipment for military action.

Dial (face). This is the part of an watch that displays the time, typically through a dial and moving hands. It can also display additional information, such as date and chronograph functions.

Diver’s watch. A watch that meets the requirements of the international standard ISO 6425. These requirements include water resistance to at least 100 meters, legibility in total darkness from 25 cm, a unidirectional, rotating timing bezel, and other requirements such as minimum shock resistance.

DSSD. Rolex Deep Sea Sea Dweller.

Dual time zone. A watch that enables the wearer to read two different time zones. Travelers can use it to display their home time zone and the local time. Pilots and military personnel can us the function to display Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). GMT is sometimes referred to as UTC (Coordinated Universal Time).

DW. Datewheel.

ETA. ETA SA Swiss Watch Manufacturer (ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse) is a swiss company that designs and manufactures watches and movements. The company was originally founded in 1856, though parts of its production line can be traded to 1793. ETA is now a wholly-owned subsidiary of The Swatch Group. Examples of ETA movements include the ETA 2824, the ETA 2892, and the Valjoux 7750.

FF. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

FFF. Blancpain Fifty-five fathoms.

Fiddy. A Panerei PAM 127.

Fly-back chronograph. A chronograph that slows the timing to be reset without having to be stopped.

Franken. A watch that includes both replica and genuine parts.

Frequency. The number of vibrations, or semi-oscillations, that a watch makes per unit of time. Most modern mechanical watches have a frequency of 21,600 or 28,800 vph. A watch with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour ticks 8 times per second.

Gen. Genuine.

GMT. GMT refers to Greenwich Mean Time. Some watches have a GMT function and are referred to as GMT watches. See “Dual Time Zone”.

Hacking seconds. A watch in which the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out.

Horology. The study and measurement of time.

IWC. Refers to the watch manufacturer International Watch Co. The company refers to itself as IWC.

JLC. Refers to the watch manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoulter.

Jewels. Synthetic rubies are used in watch movements. One of their uses is to function as bearings to reduce friction.
 
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LN (Lunette Noir). French for black bezel. Often used in connection with Rolex model numbers to refer to the color of the bezel.


Lugs (also known as “Horns”). Protrusions on a case to which a bracelet or strap is attached. Lugs appear in various sizes and shapes.

LV (Lunette Verde). French for green bezel. Often used in connection with Rolex model numbers to refer to the color of the bezel.

Lume. This refers to the luminescence of the markers and hands on a watch. It enables the watch to be read in low light conditions. Lume can be charged by sunlight or artificial light.

M2M. Member to member, referring to transactions between members.

Mainspring. This is the power source for mechanical watches. It is a tiny, coiled spring that is tightened by winding, and then slowly unwinds and releases its power.

Manual movement. This is one type of mechanical movement. The other type is an automatic movement. Manual movements are the oldest type of watch movement. They are called manual or “hand wound” movements because they have to be manually wound to create energy in the watch’s mainspring. The crown is turned multiple times to wind the mainspring and store potential energy. Over time, the mainspring unwinds slowly. As it unwinds, gears and springs regular the release of energy that turn the hands and power the complications.

Mechanical movement. A mechanical movement is one type of movement. The other type is a Quartz Movement. The word “Mechanical” can be used to refer to the movement (a mechanical movement), or to a watch (a watch with a mechanical movement). A mechanical movement uses energy from a wound spring to power the watch (unlike a quartz movement, which typically uses a battery). The spring stores energy, which is transferred through a series of gears and springs. There are two types of mechanical movements: Manual and Automatic.

Moon phase. A feature on a watch that keeps track of the phases of the moon. This is typically shown in a subdial.

Movement. Also known as caliber or calibre. This refers to the inner mechanism of a clock or watch. The movement does not include the case, which encloses and protects the movement, or the dial (face), which displays the time. There are two categories of movements: mechanical and quartz. Generally speaking, on a quartz movement, the second hand has a tick-tick motion that moves once a second. On a mechanical watch, the second hand has a smooth, sweeping seconds motion.

NATO strap. A strap made from nylon, originally for military use.

PAM. Abbreviation for Panerei since their model number conventions start with the letters “PAM”.

PCL. Polished center links, referring to a bracelet.

Perpetual Calendar. A calendar mechanism that automatically adjusts for all months, including leap-year in February. Compare with “Annual Calendar”. Most perpetual calendars will maintain the correct date until February 28, 2100, when they will have to be reset. Based on a quirk in the Gregorian calendar, 2100 will not be a leap year despite being divisible by four.

PloProf. Omega PLOngeur PROFessional.

PO. Planet Ocean.

Power reserve. The length of time that a mechanical movement will continue to run without having to be rewound.

PP. Refers to the watch manufacturer Patek Philippe. Or to Paypal.

PVD. Physical vapor deposition. A method used to apply a thin coating of a substance on an object.

QC. Quality control.

Quartz. A quartz movement is one type of movement. The other type is a Mechanical Movement. The word “Quartz” can be
used to refer to the movement (quartz movement), or to a watch (a watch with a quartz movement). The movement is powered by a quartz crystal. Most quartz watches are powered by batteries. The battery sends an electrical current through the crystal, which electrifies the crystal and creates vibrations. These vibrations keep the movement oscillating and drive the motor, thereby moving the hands of the watch.


Rattrapante. See “Split Seconds Chronograph”.

Rehaut. A flange that raises the crystal above the dial and hands. On some Rolex models, the rehaut says ROLEXROLEXROLEX.

Rep. Replica.

RG. Rose gold.

Rollie. Slang for Rolex.

RO. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

ROO. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.

Rotor. This is a device used to wind the mainspring in automatic watches. It is usually half-moon in shape.

Screw down crown. A crown that can be screwed down in order to seal the crown to the case. The purpose is to make the watch water resistant.

SD. Rolex Sea Dweller.

SEL. Solid end links.

Skeleton watch. A mechanical watch in which all of the moving parts are visible.

Speedy. Slang for Omega Speedmaster.

Split seconds chronograph. A feature used to time different events that begin together but do not end at the same time.

Spring bar. A piece of metal used to hold a watch band (strap or bracelet) in place.

SS. Stainless steel.

Strap (or band or bracelet). The object that fastens the watch to the wrist. The term “strap” is typically used to refer to bands made from leather, rubber or plastic. The terms “bracelet” is typically used to refer to bands made from metal, typically made of links.

Stop seconds function. See “Hacking”.

Sub. An abbreviation used to refer to Rolex submariner, submarine sandwich, Subway, submarine, etc.

SubC. Rolex Submariner with a ceramic bezel.

Subdial (or subsidiary dials). This is a small dial on the main dial of the watch that shows additional information. For example, a subdial may be used to show seconds, the date, or elapsed time on a chronograph watch.

Swiss made. This is a label to indicate that product was made in Switzerland. Swiss law defines the specific criteria that are used in order for a watch to be considered Swiss made. Generally speaking, a watch is a Swiss watch if it has a Swiss movement, the movement is cased in Switzerland, and the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland. A movement is considered a Swiss movement if it was assembled in Switzerland, the movement was inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland, and the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 60% (before January 10, 2017 it was 50%) of the total value (not including the cost of assembly). The 60% figure corresponds to the rate used in the free-trade agreement between Switzerland and the European Union.

Tachymeter (or Tachometer). This is a numerical scale inscribed around the dial or bezel of a chronograph watch. It can be used with the chronometer seconds to measure speed based on travel time or distance based on speed.

TAG. Refers to the watch manufacturer TAG Heuer.

Tang buckle. A tang buckle is like a traditional men’s belt buckle, in which a metal piece penetrates the holes in a strap.

TC. A watchmaker known for producing very high-quality Rolex reps. No longer in business. TC reps are in high demand.

TD. Trusted dealer.

Tourbillon. A mechanism that constantly rotates the balance wheel, balance spring and escapement while the movement is running. The purpose is to increase accuracy by countering the effect of Earth’s gravity. It is a French word that means whirlwind.

TT. Two tone.

UN. Ulysse Nardin.

Unicorn. A mythical creature.

VC. Refers to the watch manufacturer Vacheron Constantin.

WM9. A watchmaker known for producing high-quality Rolex reps. No longer in business.

World time watch. A watch that can simultaneously display the time in multiple time zones across the world.

XTAL. Crystal.

YG. Yellow gold.

YM. Rolex Yacht Master.
 

Timnic54

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Brilliant post, Can I add a few;

A

Antimagnetic Resistance to external magnetic forces

Amplitude The degree to which the balance wheel swings each way

Analogue A display system using hands as opposed to digits

Aperture A hole in the dial allowing a display beneath the dial to be seen.

Arabic Display Traditional number display as opposed to Roman numerals

Autonomy The time a watch will run between windings

B

Balance A wheel which oscillates on an axis and provides the timing of the watch via the escapement

Balance spring. Often referred to as the hairspring , it is a spring spiral, laying parralel to the balance wheel and provides for its oscillation

Barrel The housing for the mainspring

Blued steel A traditional heat treatment applied to screws and hands . In heating the oxidation gives rise to a blue colour

Bark A traditional finish applied to Gold Popular in the 70s for center links on a Rolex day date

Bottom Plate The base plate of a movement ,drilled to accept the bearings (Jewelled or otherwise ) for the staffs

Breguet Overcoil A system off attaching the balance spring to provide maximum isochronism

Bridge A metal plate holding the pinions at the opposite side to the bottom plate

C

Cannon pinion The parts which protude through the dial to which the hands are attached

Cabochon A precious stone round polished and un-faceted Often used to decorate crowns

D

Dead seconds A watch in which the second hand moves in precise 1 second intervals

Dial foot Dial feet support th dial position and provide clearance from other parts

Dual timezone A watch which by some means provides insight to an alternative timezone

Dynamograph An instrument to measure mainspring tension

E

Ebuche An unfinished movement consisting of drive train, to which a watchmaker may add other parts

Equation of time A watch with this displays the difference between true solar time and mean time


Escapement A system of transmiting power to the watch movement timed by the balance function

F

Foudrayante A hand which makes one full circle per second

Fusee A conical shaft allowing for a chain or cable power transmition Common in drive trains until 18th Cent

Free sprung balance A balance system without balance spring length regulation offering greater isochronism. Regulation is by screws on the balance wheel itself



G

Glucydur An antimagnetic alloy used for balances

Govenor A device (usually centrifugal) for slowing motion. Often used in repeaters

H

Hertz A unit of frequency in which 1 Hertz equals one cycle per second

I

Incabloc A dampening system for the balance assembly rendering the watch to an extent shock proof

Index Regulator A system of balance regulation by altering the effective length of the balance spring

Isochronism The capacity of the watches Balance system to function unimpaired by external forces

J

Jumping hour A watch in which the hour is displayed in one single hourly movement ( usually digital )

L

Ligne An ancient unit of measure used in watchmaking 1 ligne equals 2.2558 mm

M

Maltese Cross A device to prevent the overwinding of manual wind movements

P

Pallet fork The part of the escapment with jewelled feet which allow the timed release of power

Pawl Otherwise known as a click to prevent the return of a toothed wheel in the opposite direction of required motion

Pellaton winding An effective system of autowinding Used most recently in IWC seven day movements

R
Retrograde A hand which moves on one direction and then returns

Reapeater A watch which strikes hours audibly (Minute repeater strikes less than hours , maybe quarters but not always actual minutes )

T

Tachymeter A scale for measuring speed Commonly found on the bezel of a Rolex Daytona

Tourbillon Devised by Breguet and first put in a wristwatch by Franck muller A system to isolate the balance from gravitational forces It provides for the whole balance assembly to turn on its own axis, usually every minute There are variations on this , such as a gyrotourbillon.

Trittium A radioactive material, used until outlawed to provide lume



There will be more. There are always more
 
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Brilliant post, Can I add a few;

A

Antimagnetic Resistance to external magnetic forces

Amplitude The degree to which the balance wheel swings each way

Analogue A display system using hands as opposed to digits

Aperture A hole in the dial allowing a display beneath the dial to be seen.

Arabic Display Traditional number display as opposed to Roman numerals

Autonomy The time a watch will run between windings

B

Balance A wheel which oscillates on an axis and provides the timing of the watch via the escapement

Balance spring. Often referred to as the hairspring , it is a spring spiral, laying parralel to the balance wheel and provides for its oscillation

Barrel The housing for the mainspring

Blued steel A traditional heat treatment applied to screws and hands . In heating the oxidation gives rise to a blue colour

Bark A traditional finish applied to Gold Popular in the 70s for center links on a Rolex day date

Bottom Plate The base plate of a movement ,drilled to accept the bearings (Jewelled or otherwise ) for the staffs

Breguet Overcoil A system off attaching the balance spring to provide maximum isochronism

Bridge A metal plate holding the pinions at the opposite side to the bottom plate

C

Cannon pinion The parts which protude through the dial to which the hands are attached

Cabochon A precious stone round polished and un-faceted Often used to decorate crowns

D

Dead seconds A watch in which the second hand moves in precise 1 second intervals

Dial foot Dial feet support th dial position and provide clearance from other parts

Dual timezone A watch which by some means provides insight to an alternative timezone

Dynamograph An instrument to measure mainspring tension

E

Ebuche An unfinished movement consisting of drive train, to which a watchmaker may add other parts

Equation of time A watch with this displays the difference between true solar time and mean time


Escapement A system of transmiting power to the watch movement timed by the balance function

F

Foudrayante A hand which makes one full circle per second

Fusee A conical shaft allowing for a chain or cable power transmition Common in drive trains until 18th Cent

Free sprung balance A balance system without balance spring length regulation offering greater isochronism. Regulation is by screws on the balance wheel itself



G

Glucydur An antimagnetic alloy used for balances

Govenor A device (usually centrifugal) for slowing motion. Often used in repeaters

H

Hertz A unit of frequency in which 1 Hertz equals one cycle per second

I

Incabloc A dampening system for the balance assembly rendering the watch to an extent shock proof

Index Regulator A system of balance regulation by altering the effective length of the balance spring

Isochronism The capacity of the watches Balance system to function unimpaired by external forces

J

Jumping hour A watch in which the hour is displayed in one single hourly movement ( usually digital )

L

Ligne An ancient unit of measure used in watchmaking 1 ligne equals 2.2558 mm

M

Maltese Cross A device to prevent the overwinding of manual wind movements

P

Pallet fork The part of the escapment with jewelled feet which allow the timed release of power

Pawl Otherwise known as a click to prevent the return of a toothed wheel in the opposite direction of required motion

Pellaton winding An effective system of autowinding Used most recently in IWC seven day movements

R
Retrograde A hand which moves on one direction and then returns

Reapeater A watch which strikes hours audibly (Minute repeater strikes less than hours , maybe quarters but not always actual minutes )

T

Tachymeter A scale for measuring speed Commonly found on the bezel of a Rolex Daytona

Tourbillon Devised by Breguet and first put in a wristwatch by Franck muller A system to isolate the balance from gravitational forces It provides for the whole balance assembly to turn on its own axis, usually every minute There are variations on this , such as a gyrotourbillon.

Trittium A radioactive material, used until outlawed to provide lume



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