Rolex Parts/Build Reference

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Merlin

Wizard
Staff member
Administrator
#1
Hey all,

Some of you may want to build your own watch from Rolex parts while others may just need to replace certain parts on your genuine Rolex for whatever reason. This reference is so that you always get the correct parts for your watch. I also added prices so you won't be ripped off. Feel free to comment anything I missed or got wrong and I'll add it to this post.

I'll list out the Rolex part, the alternatives, as well as the prices you should expect to pay for each part. CTRL+F your reference number. Prices are generally for new parts, as used/older part prices are negotiable depending on the condition. This is a work in progress and I'll add even more models/prices as time goes on :p

16610
Case: 16610 serial number case from Rolex.
Price: $1500-$2500, if you can even find one, and it’s usually a service case

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • Startime submariner case (lugs need a rework because they're thicker lugs resembling the modern submariner) - $175
    • TC 16610 case
    • JF 16610 case
Bezel Assembly: 16610 bezel assembly from Rolex
Price: $750-$850 BNIB

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC PA2 Bezel Assembly
    • JF Bezel Assembly
Bezel Insert: 16610LN, 16610LV inserts from Rolex. Tritium or Superluminova depending on the age of the build you're going for.
Price: $200-$225 BNIB LN, $575-675 BNIB LV

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC LN/LV bezel inserts
    • JF LN/LV bezel inserts
    • WSO/ST bezel inserts (not gen-spec)
Crown: Triplock Crown 24-704-0, blister says B24-704-0-G1 (use 703 if your build is from 1997 or earlier) from Rolex
Price: $150-$200 BNIB

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC 16610 Crown
    • JF 16610 Crown
Tube: Tube 24-7030-0 from Rolex
Price: $100-$125 BNIB

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • Startime Tube - $7
    • Most tubes from an aftermarket case work just as well
Crystal: Any 295 Crystal from Rolex will fit. Period correct would be no AR/LEC, but you can also put a B25-295-C12-C1 from a modern submariner with AR/LEC or B25-295-CAR-C1 meant for Yachtmaster/GMT.
Price: $300-$325 BNIB CAR, $350-$375 BNIB C12, $375 BNIB No AR/LEC

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC 16610 no AR/LEC crystal
    • JF 16610 no AR/LEC crystal
    • Noob V7 AR/LEC crystal
Datewheel: 3135 datewheel from Rolex. Different years have different fonts.
Price: $150-$200 BNIB

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC V4 datewheel (2824/2836 movements) - $10
    • JF 3135 datewheel (font is a bit thick)
    • Noob 3135 datewheel
Dial: 16610 dial from Rolex. Tritium or Superluminova depending on the age of the build you're going for.
Price: $750-$850 BNIB LN, $1750-$2000 BNIB LV

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC 16610 dial (2824/2836 movements)
    • JF 16610 dial
    • WM9 16610 dial (harder to find and the lume plots are overfilled)
Hands: 16610 hands from Rolex. Tritium or Superluminova depending on the age of the build you're going for.
Price: $300-$350 BNIB LN, $400-$450 BNIB LV

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC 16610 hands (2824/2836 movements)
    • JF 16610 hands
Bracelet: 93150 for non-SEL bracelet. 93250 for SEL bracelet.
Price: $1250 93150 bracelet, $1500 93250 bracelet

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • TC 93250 bracelet - $80
    • JF 93250 bracelet
    • Yuki 93150 bracelet
    • Cartel 93150 bracelet
Movement: Caliber 3135 from Rolex
Price: $2250-$2500 BNIB

  • Aftermarket alternatives
    • ETA 2824/2836 if using TC parts (dial/hands) - $150
    • SH3135 - $250
    • SA3135
Lume Reference
  • Prior – 1953: The early age of Rolex luminous, used on their pocket watches, early oyster cases, bubble backs and radiomir Panerai’s.
  • 1953 – 1956: When Rolex introduced the world their sports / utility / tool watch concept with radium Submariner, TOG, Explorer & GMT Master.
  • 1957 – 1960: When Rolex lowered radiation and chanced dial printing from 1 to 2 colored print and enhanced the lacquer to a more glossy variant.
  • 1960 – 1963: The pre ‘Transitional” period with “Exclamation” mark and due to the starting international regulation, again less radioactive luminous.
  • 1963 – 1964: “Transitional” underline of which Rolex switched from Radium to Tritium, delivered dials are “Swiss” signed but laminated with tritium.
  • 1964 – 1967: The new generation tritium luminous got added on glossy dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”.
  • 1967 – 1983: The matte dial with tritium luminous got introduced by Rolex. We see tritium signings variations like T Swiss T<25 or σ T-Swiss-T σ.
  • 1983 – 1997: The last era of the tritium dials when the glossy dial surface came back, now the luminous was added in a added white gold surround.
  • 1998 – 2000: LumiNova was invented in 1993 and patented in 1995; Nemoto & Co. Ltd. was contracted in 1998 to provide LumiNova to Switzerland.
  • 2000 – 2008: Super Luminova, a improved version of Luminova, a material that has the same properties as tritium but is not radioactive.
  • 2008 – now: Chroma Light, the new blue colored Super Luminova that's been in use since Rolex patented it.
 
Last edited:

Spinman

Member
Diplomat
Dec 22, 2017
14
9
3
#2
Great write up and very informative. This will be immensely helpful for Newbies and people considering builds.
A couple of points though.
Rolex parts have/are going up. I've seen an increase of at least 15% in the last 3-4 months. The prices that you have listed are closer to the "old" pricing and probably will be more of a "starting point" I am able to get some of these prices when I purchase in bulk (2-4k) but not on individual pieces. This isn't a US vs. European thing. It's across the board.
Others may be luckier, but I felt it was worth mentioning.
Also regarding all things LV, the prices are considerably more. You indicated this on bezel inserts, but when it comes to dials and hands, there's also a considerable increase in cost
i.e. LV Dials start at $2000 USD whereas you have listed $400 for an LN.
Thanks again for the forum, and the wonderful knowledge and insight.
Spinman
 

Merlin

Wizard
Staff member
Administrator
#3
Great write up and very informative. This will be immensely helpful for Newbies and people considering builds.
A couple of points though.
Rolex parts have/are going up. I've seen an increase of at least 15% in the last 3-4 months. The prices that you have listed are closer to the "old" pricing and probably will be more of a "starting point" I am able to get some of these prices when I purchase in bulk (2-4k) but not on individual pieces. This isn't a US vs. European thing. It's across the board.
Others may be luckier, but I felt it was worth mentioning.
Also regarding all things LV, the prices are considerably more. You indicated this on bezel inserts, but when it comes to dials and hands, there's also a considerable increase in cost
i.e. LV Dials start at $2000 USD whereas you have listed $400 for an LN.
Thanks again for the forum, and the wonderful knowledge and insight.
Spinman
You’re right, completely forgot prices were going up. I put the prices off the top of my head based on what I paid for them when I built my frankens (which was like over a year ago).

I’ll update the prices accordingly. Good point about the LV too, completely forgot. Keep the comments coming so the reference is as useful as possible :love:
 
Dec 30, 2017
11
7
3
#5
That Rolex parts price list is very helpful - sometimes we get carried away- also be a good idea to list URLS of places like TRF where one can find parts otther than the Bay
 
Likes: Spinman

Jun_i0r

New member
Dec 31, 2017
13
17
3
#7
Can we add Phong to the list? He offers quite a few parts. He’s local for me and has helped out with quite a few of my builds
 
Jan 18, 2018
15
5
3
New York
#10
This is a post after my own heart! Amazing. Thanks. This is exactly what I do. Problem is finding real cases. I was lucky this year and found 4 real cases a 16613 a 16610 a 116610 and a 116710. But they cost a ton.

Some nice after market cases out there. The JF is really nice after a little work. You have too use tabs too hold a 3135 in there but really the last TC you also had to use a tab. Thanks @Merlin for this write up.