Please add our email firstname.lastname@example.org and/or domain horologyboard.com into your whitelist to make sure emails are not filtered or blocked. If you have registered but have not received your activation email, please check you spam/junk folder.
If you still cannot find your email to activate your account, please Contact Us. Thank you.
This is a post after my own heart! Amazing. Thanks. This is exactly what I do. Problem is finding real cases. I was lucky this year and found 4 real cases a 16613 a 16610 a 116610 and a 116710. But they cost a ton.
Some nice after market cases out there. The JF is really nice after a little work. You have too use tabs too hold a 3135 in there but really the last TC you also had to use a tab. Thanks @Merlin for this write up.
Now you get to see the cost of builds straight from my own collection, as well as builds from some of my friends. I always hated when people post their finished build and is all hush-hush about how much everything cost them.
In addition, I added a parts vendor list. Let me know if I should add anyone else.
I've been super inactive lately but I have some free time now so I'll have the 16613, 16622, 16623, 116710 models up by end of this weekend (including sample build pictures)
A couple things to note for new people to the hobby or frankening. It is very rare you are going to find a brand new NOS part. Merlin is part of the group who knows people who can get brand new sealed parts. Unless you’re buying from about one of 6 people on the forums the vast vast vast majority will be used. You can cut most of those prices in half if used. I sold a half dozen 16610LV inserts for under $350 and 16610LN inserts under $100. Dials are the same. With patience you can normally find a great quality used dial for half of new retail. If someone says it’s new but it comes in anything but a Rolex sealed package, it’s used. Also whenever a price looks too good to be true, it is. Walk away